In the past, men wore more jewelry than today.
Necklaces, rings, bracelets, brooches, earrings... Today, jewelry is often associated with women. However, in the past, men wore it much more. So why has this tradition faded?
Male beauty standards have evolved over the centuries, as has the role of jewelry. In the past, rulers wore rubies sewn into their clothing and pearl necklaces as a sign of wealth and power. During the Renaissance, earrings became a fashion phenomenon among men. Pirates, on the other hand, never abandoned their hoop earrings, which they wore for surprising reasons.
Wearing jewelry was, above all, a way to assert one's status: a man covered in gold, pearls, and precious stones inspired respect. And ultimately, is it so different from today's luxury watches?
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Men's jewelry: a symbol of power and prestige
Hans Holbein's famous portrait of Henry VIII remains one of the most iconic in royal history. It's impossible to miss the many jewels adorning the sovereign: a wide necklace studded with precious stones, sparkling rubies sewn onto his sumptuous garment, richly embroidered sleeves, and imposing rings on each finger.
Why would a 16th-century king want to be depicted this way? Today, jewelry is often seen as a feminine attribute, but in the past, it was an undeniable sign of power. During the Renaissance, men wore jewelry for one simple reason: to stand out. More than just an accessory, it displayed their wealth and influence. There was no question of allowing women to have exclusive rights to necklaces, rings, and earrings if it meant strengthening their status.
Royal portraits: a dazzling display of wealth
Throughout history, jewelry and clothing have always been symbols of power and prestige. During the Renaissance, men's fashion became more refined, fabrics more luxurious, and outfits more expensive. Wearing gold embroidery, rare fabrics, and jewelry adorned with precious stones was an explicit way to assert one's status.
Take the portrait of Gustav III of Sweden, painted in 1777, for example. What immediately strikes one is his majestic, four-row necklace, adorned with motifs symbolic of royal power. Draped in an ermine cloak with precious black spots—a sign of the number of animals used in its making—he embodies opulence. His clothes, meanwhile, sparkle with silver thread embroidery. Every element of this portrait is designed to concentrate maximum wealth on the sovereign's figure, and the jewelry is a key piece.
Walter Raleigh seduced Queen Elizabeth with his pearl earring
In the 16th century, earrings were a true sign of style among English nobles. Sir Walter Raleigh, the famous explorer and spy, reputedly close to Queen Elizabeth I, proudly wore a large pearl in his ear. A British chronicler in 1577 noted ironically that "some bold courtiers and foolhardy gentlemen... wear rings of gold, stones, or pearls in their ears, believing that they are thereby improving the work of God."
In 1616, Raleigh set out in search of the legendary city of El Dorado—perhaps hoping to further expand his jewelry collection. But his expedition violated a peace treaty with Spain, and in 1618, he was arrested and executed. A tragic fate, though unrelated to his fondness for pearls.
Men wore jewelry to make a style statement – and you didn't have to be royalty to participate.
Rulers weren't the only ones to wear jewelry. Men like Jacopo Strada , an Italian courtier in the service of German rulers, also wanted to display their wealth by wearing jewelry. In this portrait by Titian, Strada is depicted in his study, surrounded by riches and a testament to his erudition. He wears an elaborate gold chain, likely a gift from Emperor Maximilian II of the Holy Roman Empire. He holds an antique statue, and the coins carelessly thrown onto his desk, as well as his fur cape, attest to his wealth.
Jewelry wasn't just a way to display wealth. It was also a way for rulers to shower their courtiers with expensive gifts, like the necklace in this portrait.
This king wore a pearl earring until his execution
Charles I of England is famous for instigating the Civil War that cost him his life. But before he was tried for treason, he was renowned for his fashion sense, notably thanks to a huge pearl earring he wore from his teenage years until his execution.
Charles's jewel was worth a small fortune. Its pearl measured 1.6 cm long and was adorned with a tiny gold crown, a globe, and a cross. Its value was such that wearing it at his execution might have been a bad idea. According to one account, "as soon as his head fell, those who witnessed the gruesome scene rushed forward, ready to dip their hands in his blood to seize the royal jewel."
Pirates also loved beautiful hoop earrings
While pirates were known for their love of hoop earrings, these jewels were more than just a fashion accessory: they ensured their owner a decent burial. Often made of gold—sometimes silver, a more affordable alternative—these earrings could be resold or melted down to finance the deceased's funeral. Everything hinged on the honesty of the pirate code, which was supposed to ensure that these precious hoop earrings would not end up in another person's pocket.
Some went even further by engraving the name of their home port inside the ring, ensuring that if they were to perish far at sea, they could be returned to their loved ones. A very different use from the ostentatious jewelry of European kings, but further proof that jewelry has always had value far beyond appearances.
Even armor sometimes looked like jewelry.
As this painting of Emperor Charles V shows , even armor was embellished and decorated to resemble jewelry. This type of armor was never worn in battle; rather, it served decorative purposes. Armor not only associated its wearer with military strength and power, but also signaled the ruler's wealth. As Earl A. Powell III, director of the National Gallery of Art, stated, "During the Renaissance, armor was an artistic symbol of martial and sovereign power... displayed armor reinforces the sitter's power."
Look at the plumed helmet next to Charles. It clearly hasn't seen battle, but its rich color and gold trim attest to the ruler's power, and like other jewelry, it symbolizes wealth and power.
Wealth is synonymous with power, so men also put jewelry on their sons
Even young boys were not immune to the ostentation of jewelry. This 15th-century portrait of Frederick of Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino, with his heir, is a perfect example. The child is adorned with jewels, reinforcing the image of a powerful and prosperous lineage. At this time, portraits of sovereigns were designed to project an idealized image, highlighting their wealth and status.
Montefeltro, an illegitimate son who became duke after his brother's assassination—a plot in which he himself is said to have participated—had every interest in asserting the legitimacy of his reign. In this painting, he appears on the "good side" (the other having been disfigured by a war wound), reading a book, while his son studies beside him. His armor recalls his military prowess, but the overall portrait—and especially his son's jewelry—serves primarily to convey a clear message: his family is wealthy, educated, and destined to rule.
Rings were an important way for men to show their allegiance
Rings are still considered acceptable jewelry for men today, although they are generally limited to wedding bands. In the past, however, many men wore rings regularly. They served two purposes: first, they signaled wealth, as they were made of precious metals and often adorned with gemstones. But they were also a way to identify allegiances. Many rings featured a family symbol or crest. They could be used to seal wax envelopes or worn on social occasions to clearly indicate which alliances a man was loyal to.
Jewelry wasn't just a way to convey wealth and power; it also signaled social connections. In an era where appearance was paramount, jewelry provided an additional means of conveying a message.
European men weren't the only ones wearing jewelry.
While the European Renaissance marked a peak in the display of men's jewelry, it was far from an exception. Men around the world wore jewelry for a variety of reasons, ranging from social status to religious beliefs.
In Japan, the Ainu people wore earrings until the government banned the practice in the late 19th century. In the Americas, some Native American tribes used facial piercings and ornaments during spiritual rituals. In India, jewelry was ubiquitous, as evidenced by this portrait of Nana Fadnavis, a high-ranking official in the Maratha Empire in the 18th century. While Europeans posed in their finest for their portraits, Indian men proudly displayed themselves adorned with gold and precious stones, thus asserting their rank and wealth.
Men have been wearing jewelry for thousands of years
The fashion for men's jewelry does not date back to the Renaissance. Since ancient times, men have worn ornaments to assert their status, wealth, or membership in an elite group.
The ancient Greeks wore laurel wreaths as symbols of honor and power. The Romans wore rings and earrings, while the Celts, master goldsmiths, crafted torcs, the open necklaces proudly worn by warriors. In ancient Egypt, men adorned themselves with gold bracelets, necklaces, and armbands set with precious stones.
This 17th-century painting depicts Croesus, King of Lydia, renowned for his legendary fortune. To highlight his wealth, artist Claude Vignon adorned him with jewelry worthy of a monarch of his time: pearl necklaces, rings, and a crown encrusted with precious stones. This choice reflects the European vision of jewelry in the 17th century: an essential symbol of prestige and power.
Assert your status with bling
Necklaces were a popular way for men to display their wealth, as evidenced by this portrait of George Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham, painted in 1625. Around his neck, a long string of pearls catches the eye: a luxurious accessory, a symbol of flourishing trade during the Renaissance.
But that's not all. Just above, its intricately crafted lace collar reinforces the desired effect. At that time, men's fashion was a demonstration of power, and every detail of clothing—whether jewelry, rare fabrics, or expensive ornaments—served to assert social status.
The Renaissance was an era of conspicuous consumption, and men's jewelry was its most striking expression. Even today, displaying style and success through accessories has lost none of its power.
For royalty, jewelry never goes out of style
Royals wearing expensive jewelry and clothing to impress are still alive and well. For proof, just look at Prince William wearing jewelry. Will fashion once again follow royal trends and usher in a comeback for men's jewelry? Everything suggests yes, as men are gradually rediscovering the joys of asserting their style through bold and refined pieces.